I'm getting ready to do the same thing and already purchased Ken's C4 overhaul video set, Sonnax billet C-ratio servo and cover kit, TransGo 47-2 shift/reprogramming kit, a master rebuild kit w/Kevlar forward band and a free tub of Dr Tranny's green assembly goo compliments of the seller of the rebuild and shift kits. It does seem pretty intimidating if you haven't done something like this before but it is not rocket science either. You will read all over the VMF alone about all the folks that have rebuilt their trans themselves.

1. 1968 Ford C4 Transmission Fluid Specs

As long as you have the proper tools, direction/instruction and quality parts you can save yourself a few hundred bucks that can be put towards other cool things for your Mustang. I'm also pulling the 289 and replacing the heads. Intake mani, carb, cam, oil pump and a few other small items. Colorado real estate manual 2015. The bottom end is still pulling good compression so leaving alone for now but may change my mind once I have the engine out and if in the budget.

My point being it can all be done as DIY projects, just dig in man, best of luck! Right in the middle of my C4 rebuild right now. The trans ran great when I parked the car years ago, but even then it blew a lot of fluid. Bought Ken's Badshoe Productions video and highly recommend it. So far during my rebuild, I have found a damaged pump gear and a servo housing with galling.

My clearance in the forward clutch is too great so I am getting some thicker plates. I spend $200 on a total rebuild kit from Makco. I got all new gaskets, clutches, clutch plates, rings, all bushings, that weird spring in the forward clutch, thrust bearings with selectives, modulator, and sprag kit. I had to buy about $75 worth of tools off eBay, a better set of snap ring pliers, and another $50 for solvents, trans oil for assembly but not to fill on completion, and brake cleaner. I haven't replaced the torque converter yet but will do so with a stock unit for probably $80. I am rebuilding it the way a service probably would not.

I would guess that some of the back yard deals don't include difficult to access parts like the o-rings in the bottom of the clutches and certainly no bushings. That was my experience after tearing into this thing and recalling that I had it resealed about 20 years ago. It is not all that difficult particularly when I have the laptop on my toolbox with Ken's dvds plugged in coaching me through the maze.

I encourage anyone to rebuild there transmission based on my present experience. I am not finished, so I reserve the right to deny all encouragement in a couple of weeks.

The Haynes Ford Automatic Transmission Overhaul and Repair Manual shows the DIY mechanic how to identify transmissions and transaxles manufactured by the Ford Motor Company. The manual also provides helpful information about operation, in-vehicle repairs and adjustments, overhaul procedures and more. The Haynes manual includes more than 1,000 step-by-step instructions and is enhanced with close-up photos that take the mystery out of auto transmissions and transaxles. The Ford Automatic Transmission Overhaul and Repair Manual by Haynes, is the perfect tool for the do-it-yourself weekend mechanic, but also includes professional tips and tricks that even the most experienced mechanic can benefit from. As an added bonus.

Haynes Ford Automatic Transmission Overhaul and Repair Manuals ship for free to the continental 48 states. MODELS COVERED:. Ford C3. Ford C4.

Ford C5. Ford C6. Ford AOD rear wheel drive transmissions. Ford ATX, FLC and AXOD front wheel drive transaxles Note: this manual DOES NOT include the electronic versions of the AOD (AODE) or AXOD (AXODE). Book Excerpt: Ford Automatic Transmission Overhaul and Repair Manual TRANSMISSION REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION FOUR-WHEEL DRIVE MODELS ONLY NOTE: We recommend removing the transfer case before removing the transmission, as described here, since the transmission/transfer case assembly can be very cumbersome to remove together as a unit. Remove the skid plate under the transfer case, if equipped.

Also unbolt and remove the transfer case-to-engine support strut(s). If not already done, disconnect the shift linkage from the transfer case. On some models, the shift rod snaps into place on the transfer case lever and can be disconnected by prying it loose with a screwdriver. On other models you'll have to remove a clip or a nut. On models where a rubber boot covers the lower shift lever, move the boot out of the way and unbolt the lever from the case. Support the transfer case with a jack designed for this purpose.

Use safety chains to secure the transfer case to the jack. Remove the bolts and/or nuts securing the transfer case to the transmission. Make a final check that all cables, wires and shift linkage are disconnected from the transfer case, then move the jack to the rear until the transfer case input shaft is clear of the transmission. Lower the transfer case and remove it from under the vehicle. ALL REAR WHEEL DRIVE MODELS. Support the engine with a jack.

Use a block of wood under the oil pan to spread the load. Keep the engine supported during the entire time the transmission is out of the vehicle so you don't strain the engine mounts. Support the transmission with a jack - preferably a jack made for this purpose (see illustration). Safety chains will help steady the transmission on the jack. If equipped, unbolt any support struts attached to the transmission.

Remove the rear transmission mount-to-cross member nuts (see illustration). FLUSHING THE TRANSMISSION COOLER The transmission cooler in your radiator, as well as the lines leading to and from it, now contain burned transmission fluid and debris such as clutch material and metal particles that were deposited by your failing transmission. If you don?t flush out this gunk, it will wind up inside your newly built transmission and possibly damage it? Flushing the cooler is essential at overhaul time.

The best way to flush the cooler is with a special tank-type flushing machine. Transmission shops have these machines, but it?s generally not practical to tow your vehicle into a shop just to have the cooler and lines flushed. The best at-home method we found is to use an electric drill-powered fluid pump. These pumps are commonly available from hardware stores at a reasonable price. Fill up a bucket or similar container with solvent and connect the suction side of the pump to a short hose, placing the other end of the hose in the bucket. Connect another short hose between the pump outlet and one of the cooler lines, then connect a hose from the other cooler line, placing the other end of the hose in the bucket (see illustration).

Run the pump until the solvent coming out of the return line comes out clean. Then disconnect the pump and blow compressed air through the cooler line until no more solvent comes out the other line. If solvent does not flow through to the return line, the cooler is plugged, and you?ll need to either replace the radiator or take the cooler to a transmission shop to have it unplugged.

After flushing the cooler with solvent and blowing it out with compressed air, use the pump to circulate some new ATF through the cooler. This will ensure that all solvent has been purged from the cooler. If you don?t have a drill-powered pump, an alternative method is to use a hand-type pump, such as the kind that come with large containers of gear oil. Before assuming your cooler is now good to go, check to see if there is a leak.

Generally speaking, a leak will cause transmission fluid in the engine coolant and/or coolant in the transmission fluid (which will generally show up as fluid that looks like a strawberry milkshake). To test the cooler, securely plug the end of one of the cooler lines, then apply compressed air at about 30 psi to the other line. Any bubbles at all are an indication there is a leak and the cooler will need to be repaired or replaced.

1968 Ford C4 Transmission Fluid Specs

Continue to apply pressure for ten minutes or so which you watch the radiator opening. AXOD TRANSAXLE REVERSE CLUTCH When disassembling a clutch pack, keep the clutch components in the exact order as the original stack-up. Make notes on the number of plates, the installed direction and location of backing plates, apply plates, waved plates, etc. Differences may exist between your model and the model shown. The correct components for your transaxle should be in the overhaul kit, if you purchased the correct kit. Lubricate the clutch friction plates with ATF before installation.

One way to accomplish this, is to dip them in a shallow pan of ATF. Before removing a piston seal, note the installed direction of the seal lip. The piston seals must be installed with the seal lip facing the correct direction. If the seal is installed with the lip facing the wrong way, the piston will not operate properly.

If unsure, a common rule-of-thumb is this: the seal lips always faces pressure. Lubricate the seal and seal bore with a thin coating of ATF prior to assembly.

Refer to Chapter 2 for additional information. Subject: Ford auto transmission and transaxle overhaul manual.

ISBN-10: ISBN-13: 248 Haynes 10355.