. 1167 Answers SOURCE: ok buddy depending on enviroment you need to clean the air filter if in a dusty environment change every 2 rides if a clean environment clean it every 6-8 rides just take the airfilter out take the cage out inside rinse it out in petrol and let it dry out then wash it in hot soapy water maybe some bleach and let it dry out then buy some SILKOLENE FOAM FILTER OIL this oil stops dirt getting further in the air filter and buggering the engine up. Hi, Barry it's nonadjustable for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Husaberg, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Feb 07, 2015.

1. Husaberg Fe 570 Repair Manual
2. 2009 Husaberg Fe 570 Parts

Hi, Lance and the usual suspects are: 1. Fouled spark plugs. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper 'LOAD' test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at 'BOTH' ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, 'INSIDE' and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.

Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module. Faulty pulse coil.

Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor. Faulty ignition switch. Faulty run/off switch 11. Tilt sensor needs a reset. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below.

Good luck and have a wonderful day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Mar 06, 2018. The bike needs a top end job.

Oil is getting past the piston rings causing the bike to smoke. The best thing to do would be to have the cylinder bored then install a new piston and ring set. While the top end is apart, have the mechanic re-seat the valves. The air filter is filling with oil because of the compression getting past the rings. Maintain the proper oil level in the gear box to lessen the problem.

You may want to find a new mechanic. This is basic information any competent mechanic would know. I am not being ugly, I just want to help you out. Aug 01, 2011. Sounds like you have the common problem of a plugged fuel pick up. You need to remove the fuel pump, pickup, and sender unit deep in the fuel tank.

Its quite common for these bikes to come with a substanitial amount of junk in the tank. There are fuel pickup sceens available for the pickup that seem pretty good at preventing this problem form reoccuring.

Once you remove the pick up unit, clean the screen (usually plugged with plastic mold remnants. You may want to check the injector if it doesn't run 100% after reassembly. Injector fouling is rare nut not unheard of.

Husaberg.org is a good forum for owners May 31, 2011.

I want to start this thzread because im getting a new bike soon but i cant really decide. I need more information about the FS 570. After blowing up my 450 EXC Supermoto and repairing it for 1600 Euro im a bit suspicious about alle these lightweight, supermany hp bikes Thats why i wanted to buy a SMC 690. But now i saw a FS with only 2700 km for 6500 Euro in the near of my city. My questions are: has somebody a link to the service manual etc? I heard the new engines are really reliable, but what means reliable? Dont get me wrong, a oil and filter change is no maintenance for me.

But how often do i have to replace piston, cylinder, bearings etc? I talked to a few HBG dealers, they all told me its really realiable and it makes easy 15000 kms without problems and they never heard of big engine failures on the new engines (FE and FS) after 2009. But they are dealers and want to sell their sh.t^^ I dont want it to commute, just for street racing, mostly between 50-120 km/h. Maybe 6000-8000kms per year with a few weekend trips in it. And a bit track racing Any thoughts or meanings about that? Tell me your oppinion!

Cheers from Germany. The only thing im scared of: changing bearings. Piston change, adjusting valves, oil and filters are no problem.I bought my 2011 last February.

Has about 1500 miles (2500 km) on it now. The bike has been great. Personally, I have no worries about engine longevity. I try to change the oil at 15 hrs but have gone 20 hrs. My engine is clean inside (as much as I have seen without totally opening it) and runs perfectly. No valve clearance issues. It just runs hard each and every time.

I feel you can purchase one without worry of major failure. That said, when buying used you never know how the machine was cared for so beware. I bought my 2011 last February. Has about 1500 miles (2500 km) on it now. The bike has been great.

Personally, I have no worries about engine longevity. I try to change the oil at 15 hrs but have gone 20 hrs. My engine is clean inside (as much as I have seen without totally opening it) and runs perfectly.

No valve clearance issues. It just runs hard each and every time. I feel you can purchase one without worry of major failure. That said, when buying used you never know how the machine was cared for so beware.I ride on the street. I have not had the Berg on a track. I did have the seat modified by Fisher Upholstery in Idaho so that i could go more than 20 minutes at a time. The stock seat is too hard for my boney butt.

Bumping this thing. After i DID follow my plan almost, i bought alpina wheels I have decided that i want and fs 570 after all. So i will sell both my 450R and 690 smc You have it for a year now? According to the post How did it feel, did you regret? Would you have dome something differentlyHey, no i sold it after maybe 4 months. I had nothing but Problems with it, altough it only had about 60 hrs. I spend a lot of money on it but it still had tons of problems.

Husaberg Fe 570 Repair Manual

So i sold it last August and bought me a 2011 250 KTM SXF Musquin because i wanted to go 100% offroad. But i dont think this is for all FS 570`s, i just had a bad modell. If i ever get rich, i will buy one again But for now im satisfied with my Motocross bike. I street hooligan a 690SMC (654cc with evo2 upgrade) and race a FS570 with some decent parts on it (mostly handling mods but a few HP mods). 690 shits on the 570 when it comes to the street. Even wheelies better, Faster in a straight line, servicing interval is huge, decent fuel range if youre not sportbike hunting!

Both are very reliable bikes dont get me wrong Over 50,000km on the 690. Collecting parts for a 690cc rebuild though. 108hours on the berg and just a waterpump seal blew and clutch master cylinder seal leaked. Last edited by nitronaf; at 09:37 PM. I really don't understand how the Husaberg fanboys keep saying it's a fast engine in the 570. Quite slow actually, ESPECIALLY in the top end. Which so far a 44mm TB, Race cam, open air seat intake, DNA filter, Full Doma exhaust system and a JD tuner has made a little better but not fixed.

450s still walk right off on straights and corner exits when they start singing. I have a HMC ported head and high comp piston waiting to go in once i rebuild the bottom end of the berg. I am HOPING this makes the engine at least a little bit scary and competitive.

Evo 2 690 topend rips it to pieces and somehow the gearbox just makes it even more better when compared to the weird 570 gear ratios (have a look at the difference between 5th and 6th gear). I would sell my 570 before my 690. Still I love both bikes. Even considering race prepping the 690 for larger road racing events I race in due to its superior straight line grunt.

2009 Husaberg Fe 570 Parts

But hey, your money, your bike. Do whatever you want! Im sure youll have a blast regardless of choice. @nitronaf lol why do you think nobody uses (nobody in pro league) a smc to race and win races? We got several pros and wins on these 70? Husabergs in the german championship. Supermoto isnt about the fastest bike, its about the most nimble, handy and good working bike.

Try to whip a 690 in the dirt section on the sumo track, you will destroy yourself trying it. Its way more heavy etc. Of course a 450 cc MX bike revs up a lot quicker, but thats the difference between a 570 and a 450 MX. While the MX revs quicker, the 570 has a lot more torque!

I dont think any 690 can keep up with a 570 on the track (when riddin by equal riders). But for street riding the 690 will be better, especially if you got wider, more open or quicker roads to ride. But the Husa will blast this thing on a REAL Supermoto track (70% asphalt + 30% dirt). @nitronaf lol why do you think nobody uses (nobody in pro league) a smc to race and win races? We got several pros and wins on these 70? Husabergs in the german championship.

Supermoto isnt about the fastest bike, its about the most nimble, handy and good working bike. Try to whip a 690 in the dirt section on the sumo track, you will destroy yourself trying it. Its way more heavy etc. Of course a 450 cc MX bike revs up a lot quicker, but thats the difference between a 570 and a 450 MX. While the MX revs quicker, the 570 has a lot more torque! I dont think any 690 can keep up with a 570 on the track (when riddin by equal riders). But for street riding the 690 will be better, especially if you got wider, more open or quicker roads to ride.

But the Husa will blast this thing on a REAL Supermoto track (70% asphalt + 30% dirt).It will on this track. Which as I mentioned is A ROAD RACING EVENT. I dont care for the opinion of someone who rode an older twin pipe nugget model that is heavier and less powerful than mine 'once' and thought it was slow. I street ride. I have spent many many hours riding both (and the fact that you disregard that is mind boggling). When you see a 690R run a quarter mile vs a 570 then youll know exactly why I want to road race it in the 'Supermoto' class for the race day.

I clearly chose to race the 570 on real supermoto tracks with dirt for a reason buddy and not my 690. Ride a 570 against a KTM505, or a HUSQ511(480cc) heck even an S2 MXV450.

The 570 engine is a nugget engine wise. Does your 690 stay with 600cc sportbikes up to about 80 MPH? Has your Husaberg's computer had it's fueling remapped? My 570 has the dealer-installed 'akrapovic race map'. With a slip-on muffler, air filter, and remap the bike puts out quite a bit more than stock.

Plus my 570 is 60 pounds lighter than a stock 690. If you are not riding the 690 like a supermoto and instead are riding it like a tourer, then it's the better bike for that purpose. If you actually ride 'supermoto-like' then there's no question the 570 is tops. I say 'supermoto-like' because some folks only ride on the street but in an aggressive manner (when/where appropriate). I run a 45 tooth rear and 15 tooth countershaft (3.0:1 ratio) when I want to travel or otherwise put down miles. The bike rips with this gearing. Change the countershaft to a 14 tooth (3.21:1 ratio) and it accelerates even harder.

I get an easy 110 mph with the 3.0:1 gearing. The stock KTM 450 SMR run 14 and 48 tooth chain wheels for a 3.43:1 ratio. I have yet to try it but will put on a 13 tooth to get to 3.46:1 ratio.

I think 1st gear won't be of much use though. Does your 690 stay with 600cc sportbikes up to about 80 MPH? Has your Husaberg's computer had it's fueling remapped? My 570 has the dealer-installed 'akrapovic race map'. With a slip-on muffler, air filter, and remap the bike puts out quite a bit more than stock. Plus my 570 is 60 pounds lighter than a stock 690. If you are not riding the 690 like a supermoto and instead are riding it like a tourer, then it's the better bike for that purpose.

If you actually ride 'supermoto-like' then there's no question the 570 is tops. I say 'supermoto-like' because some folks only ride on the street but in an aggressive manner (when/where appropriate). I run a 45 tooth rear and 15 tooth countershaft (3.0:1 ratio) when I want to travel or otherwise put down miles. The bike rips with this gearing. Change the countershaft to a 14 tooth (3.21:1 ratio) and it accelerates even harder.

I get an easy 110 mph with the 3.0:1 gearing. The stock KTM 450 SMR run 14 and 48 tooth chain wheels for a 3.43:1 ratio.

I have yet to try it but will put on a 13 tooth to get to 3.46:1 ratio. I think 1st gear won't be of much use though.I have something better than Akra map. Husaberg OST unlocked map with extended redline (the racing void your warranty map) and a JD tuner for fuel management. My bike is quite far from stock and slightly more tuned than yours. The race cam and race mapping being one of the only mods that really woke it up which you do not have.

Most common gearing i run is 14/48 on the berg. 14/46 on the 690. Also worth noting the 690 drops a shit tonne of weight when stock exhaust, air box and huge battery is replaced with an akra, a pod filter(evo 2) and a lithium battery. Doma full titanium system with a custom shortened muffler did not drop much weight nor did the tiny lithium battery on the 570. And the FS570 some how with all its supermoto gear is claimed to be as light as the FE.

Theres below 20kg difference in the bikes weights 690 vs 570. It is absolutely not 60 pounds lighter. It is closer to 40.

The final ratio of the gearbox isnt what is weird. It is the huge gap between 5th and 6th gear which I admit is actually a good thing on the street. Since 1st gear is useless even for race starts. You essentially have a 4speed gearbox when racing the bike. Does your 690 stay with 600cc sportbikes up to about 80 MPH? Has your Husaberg's computer had it's fueling remapped?

My 570 has the dealer-installed 'akrapovic race map'. With a slip-on muffler, air filter, and remap the bike puts out quite a bit more than stock. Plus my 570 is 60 pounds lighter than a stock 690. If you are not riding the 690 like a supermoto and instead are riding it like a tourer, then it's the better bike for that purpose. If you actually ride 'supermoto-like' then there's no question the 570 is tops. I say 'supermoto-like' because some folks only ride on the street but in an aggressive manner (when/where appropriate).

I run a 45 tooth rear and 15 tooth countershaft (3.0:1 ratio) when I want to travel or otherwise put down miles. The bike rips with this gearing. Change the countershaft to a 14 tooth (3.21:1 ratio) and it accelerates even harder. I get an easy 110 mph with the 3.0:1 gearing. The stock KTM 450 SMR run 14 and 48 tooth chain wheels for a 3.43:1 ratio. I have yet to try it but will put on a 13 tooth to get to 3.46:1 ratio. I think 1st gear won't be of much use though.A slip on and air filter adds fuck all to the peak horse power on the 570.

I've done before and after dyno runs. It does increase torque and shifts the curve to hit sooner in the rev range.

The Husaberg's primary fault in terms of outright power is the air box. This becomes clear when you cut a hole in the seat. Dyno runs with the seat OFF gave around 3hp at peak. You need to do a lot of engine work to get the 570 to have the same kind of punch as MX based 450's.

Trust me, I've been down that road. My empty bank account is proof:( Once you do spend the coin though. Holy fuckballs.

My tippy for ANY used sportsenduro: Check the fork, is it leaking oil? Check the suspension, is everything tight or does it move while the bike is standing still? Check the wheel bearings while trying to move the front/ back wheel sideways when its on a bike stand. Turn on the bike, listen to the engine when its cold and after a test ride. Do you hear any tickling noises? 4000 km may not sound that much, but remember this bike is build for sports, it may be reliable but 4000 km are quite a few hours. Last thing i would do after a test ride is change the oil.

If you see any big metal parts, dont buy it or claim a big discount to rebuild the engine. My tippy for ANY used sportsenduro: Check the fork, is it leaking oil? Check the suspension, is everything tight or does it move while the bike is standing still? Check the wheel bearings while trying to move the front/ back wheel sideways when its on a bike stand. Turn on the bike, listen to the engine when its cold and after a test ride. Do you hear any tickling noises? 4000 km may not sound that much, but remember this bike is build for sports, it may be reliable but 4000 km are quite a few hours.

Last thing i would do after a test ride is change the oil. If you see any big metal parts, dont buy it or claim a big discount to rebuild the engine.Thanks - appreciate the tips. Pretty much got my heart set on this Berg now so really hoping it looks as good in the flesh as it does in the photos. Metal parts in old oil.SCARY (seen this before on some enduro bikes).

Ye i had some plastic parts in the oil of my 450 excr 08. It was the oil pump.

But i hold on riding and it got f.ed up xD haha one lesson i learned the hard way. Bergs are pretty gnarly, i miss mine a bit. If you do the maintenances and check the engine from time to time, you wont have any big problems (if you dont get a 'monday model' like i did haha). And if it is a 09 model, check the camchain tensioner, they got the old ones and they can make tickling noises that sound really scarry.